Thursday, June 5, 2025

Blogger, Kacie Lennon

Daily Highlights:

  • Exterior of Hagia Sophia with a presentation from Syd
  • Ferry to Beşiktaş
  • Visit Yıldız Sarayı
  • Visit Dolmabahçe Sarayı with a presentation from Sophie
  • Visit the Galata neighborhood with a presentation from Ana
  • Walk down İstiklal
  • Dinner in Galata

The Exterior of the Hagia Sophia

We began our day outside one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks, the Hagia Sophia, where Sydney gave a presentation sharing insights on the Byzantine and Ottoman layers of architectural history of the building’s exterior. The massive dome, buttresses, and minarets tell a story of centuries of religious and political change, setting the tone for a day of exploring imperial spaces.

Ferry Across the Bosphorus

The ferry ride from Eminönü to Beşiktaş gave us sweeping views of both the European and Asian shores of Istanbul. The breeze was refreshing, and seeing the city from the water offered a unique sense of its scale and layered topography.

Syd presenting on the Hagia Sophia

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Photo by Kacie Lennon

Yıldız Sarayı

At Yıldız Sarayı, nestled in lush gardens, we experienced a more secluded vision of Ottoman power. Compared to the grandeur of other palaces we have visited, Yıldız felt more intimate—a place of retreat during the empire’s final decades. Although parts of the complex are undergoing restoration, we walked through the ornamental pavilions and imagined the courtly life that once unfolded here. It was intriguing to see the blend of Art Nouveau and Rococo styles, reflecting a turn-of-the-century European influence. While we were there, a parade unexpectedly passed through the complex, which was a fun surprise!

Peacocks!

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Photo by Kacie Lennon

Dolmabahçe Sarayı

After lunch, we visited the Dolmabahçe Sarayı, a palace that almost gleamed too brightly to be real. Sophie delivered a birthday-punctuated presentation (happy 20th, Sophie!) about the palace’s eclectic but beautiful 19th-century European-inspired design and its role in the late Ottoman era. The massive chandeliers, gilded ceilings, and sprawling waterfront halls conveyed a deliberate display of imperial endurance and modernity.

Group Photo at Dolmabahçe

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Strolling Through İstiklal and Into Galata

We capped the day with a walk down İstiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s famous pedestrian boulevard. To get to the top of the hill, we rode a tram through the world’s second-oldest subway tunnel! Amid the bookstores, bakeries, and buskers, the street felt like a living artery of the city. In Galata, the neighborhood that hosts İstiklal, Ana painted a vivid picture of the neighborhood’s Genoese and Ottoman roots, guiding us through the area’s history with a beautiful view of the Galata Tower—a symbol of Istanbul’s layered history of trade, migration, and urban identity.

Ana presenting in front of Galata Tower

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Photo by Kacie Lennon

Reflections

This day stood out for how it mapped imperial ambitions onto the city’s physical and emotional landscape. From religious authority (Hagia Sophia) to monarchical opulence (Dolmabahçe) to cosmopolitan neighborhoods (Galata), we saw how space reflects and constructs power.

Questions I’m still thinking about:

  • How did the Ottomans negotiate tradition and modernity in spaces like Dolmabahçe?
  • What narratives get preserved or erased when these spaces become tourist attractions?

By the time we were sitting down to dinner in Galata (at “The Hunger,” a fitting name for a full day), Istanbul had added yet another unforgettable layer to our understanding of its imperial and modern complexities.

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